If there is a paradise on earth, it is here — a valley of impossible beauty held between the highest mountain ranges on the planet.
About Kashmir
Kashmir — the very word carries a particular weight in the English imagination. Mughal emperors called it Jannat (paradise). Jahangir famously declared that if there was heaven on earth, it was here. Standing at the edge of Dal Lake at dawn, watching the shikara boats glide through mist while the Zabarwan mountains rise above the chinar trees, it is genuinely difficult to argue with him.
The Kashmir Valley, cradled between the Pir Panjal range and the Greater Himalayas at an altitude of around 1,600 metres, is a world of extraordinary physical beauty — emerald meadows (margs), glacial rivers, high-altitude lakes and passes, and the extraordinary cultural synthesis of Central Asian, Mughal, Persian and Hindu traditions that defines Kashmiri life.
Srinagar's Old City is a living museum of wooden mosques and shrines, narrow lanes smelling of wood smoke and kangri (fire pots), and craftsmen working on the Pashmina shawls, walnut wood carvings, papier-mâché, and silk carpets for which Kashmir is famous. The Dal and Nagin lakes, with their floating gardens and colonies of houseboats, are unique to this valley and staying aboard a traditional cedar houseboat is an experience found nowhere else on earth.
Beyond Srinagar, Kashmir opens into landscapes that rank among the finest mountain scenery in Asia. Gulmarg — once a British hill station, now India's premier ski resort in winter and a meadow of wildflowers in summer — sits at 2,650 metres with the world's highest gondola rising above it. Pahalgam's Lidder Valley is the traditional gateway to the Amarnath pilgrimage and some of the finest trekking in the western Himalayas.
Destinations in Kashmir
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April–June is glorious — the valley erupts in apple blossom, tulips at the Tulip Garden (Asia's largest), and perfect temperatures. July–August brings lush green but also rain. September–October is arguably the most beautiful — the chinar trees turn gold and red, the air sharpens, and crowds thin. December–March is snowy and cold but magical for skiing at Gulmarg.
Fly into Srinagar — there are direct flights from Delhi, Mumbai and several other Indian cities. The Jammu-Srinagar National Highway (NH44) is an alternative road route but can be affected by weather and restrictions; check current conditions. The Banihal Rail Tunnel has improved train connectivity from Jammu.
In Srinagar, shikaras (wooden lake boats) are the iconic mode of transport on Dal Lake. Auto-rickshaws and taxis cover the city. For Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg, hire a private car — shared taxis exist but are slower.
Kashmir produces some of the world's finest handicrafts. Genuine Pashmina shawls (distinguished from 'Pashmina-feel' polyester by their extraordinary softness and warmth), walnut wood furniture, silk carpets, papier-mâché items and saffron (the world's most expensive spice) are all produced here. Buy from government emporiums (Khadi Gramodyog, the Kashmir Government Arts Emporium) to guarantee authenticity.
Kashmir is a predominantly Muslim region — dress modestly when visiting the Old City, mosques and shrines. Remove shoes before entering any place of worship. The Kashmiri people are extraordinarily warm hosts; accepting chai when offered is always the right move.
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